Update

We rose early and made ready to leave. The engine would not start. The engine battery was flat. We have a vast bank of sexy, new batteries all charged in every conceivable way. There is a reassuring gauge to show that they are all happy, which was not unexpected given we had been plugged into shore power. Turns out these are all domestic batteries. They do not contribute towards starting the engine. This is the job of one old 12V engine battery, a lone wolf hidden under a screwed down floor panel. It took a bit of finding. The only way this poor thing is charged is from the engine, which has not been running. This battery was not new and had been wounded beyond repair by being tossed about on our last foray towards Falmouth. Now we have replaced it and bought a battery charger and a pair of jump leads.

Tomorrow we try again for Falmouth, bring on the frogs and swarms on locust.

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Time Passes

We are still in Plymouth. We resumed our travels early on Wednesday 8th, keen to reach Falmouth before the worst of the weather. We planned to hug the coast this time. I felt a bit off. By the time we reached the breakwater I was feeling very off, and not from sea sickness. I retired to my cabin with food poisoning, one of those grim experiences when the toilet became my best friend for the day. Between bouts of sickness I lay on our bed and the room tossed and plunged wildly. This did not make me feel any worse, but I kept hoping John was strapped on up top. I confess I did not spare a thought for Graham. After a while the motion eased, perhaps we had rounded the headland and were in quieter waters nearer the land. Then I heard voices and the squeak of fenders and concluded we had turned back. The bad weather had arrived sooner than we had hoped and the remaining fit crew had made the sensible decision to turn back. I could hear them up above sorting the ropes out and John came and brought me water and dosed me with dioralyte, which was as grim as I remembered. I longed for Lucozade, the yellow glow of the bottle on the chest of drawers was always a beacon through my childhood illnesses, before the days of e-numbers and hyperactivity discredited it. I did not feel in much danger of suffering from hyperactivity. John was very thoughtful and took Graham out to eat, they spent the evening with the Old Gaffers listening to sea shanties and he brought me back a bottle of fizzy water, which actually hit the spot. Lucozade Placebo!

photo-14The weather unfortunately continued rough. We hung around the dock all Thursday, with me sleeping most of the day. That evening John cooked pasta and then we went to the bar where eighteen French accordionists were due to perform. When we arrived they were already vamping away to a packed bar. We squeezed in through their enthusiastic entourage, who kept breaking out into shuffling, huddled dances while singing along in French. The finale as far as we were concerned was the arrival of two pipers ,who played as the rest of the company danced round the bar holding hands in a sort of chasseying congo line.

Next day Graham had to head back home for a wedding. I think he was frustrated at not having taken us all the way to Falmouth, but we feel we have gained a lot from our experiences with him.We hope to take advantage of a weather window and finish the passage on our own before he rejoins us for the Biscay crossing. Of course we wish we were there with a weekend with Emma and Johnsey ahead of us. We did have the compensation of a lovely evening with John’s niece Annie and her boyfriend Rich. Annie is here in Plymouth working as a junior doctor in A and E. Rich is an Olympic class sailor, who noticed more about our rig in a few moments than I have noticed in months. They took us to the River Cottage restaurant for an excellent meal in a smart, but relaxed setting. In fact it is housed in the buildings we have been looking at across the water. We had no idea it was so nice over there. We were both touched that Annie and Rich made time to spend with us and really enjoyed their company. It has been lovely for John to introduce some of his family to Lyra. I miss being able to do the same with mine, but he has probably felt similar regrets over many other things living up North all these years.

Ferris WheelSaturday was another windy day. We walked into town and up onto the Hoe, where we rode the Ferris wheel. I do like Ferris wheels, they are my one bit of dare-devilry. The views over town were excellent, though we did sway a bit at the top. Then we watched the cup final, with it’s fairy tale ending on the little portable on the boat. We still cannot decide whether to head off early tomorrow or not.

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Day 2, Weymouth to Plymouth

After consulting the weather forecast, which predicted dire conditions on Thursday, Graham recommended we put in a long day and go straight to Plymouth. This would leave us with just a short journey to Falmouth before the weather broke, arriving Falmouth a day early. Consequently we made an early start, aiming to be off Portland Bill when the tide turned our way.

Old Gaffer outside Weymouth

The Old Gaffer behind us had come to the same conclusion and had already set off, we were to catch up with him just outside the harbour, looking very pretty setting his sails. He elected to follow the inner race, as had been recommended by the harbourmaster. The notion of being swept along to come out the other side”… like a cork from a bottle” did not appeal. I had visions of Bogart and Hepburn clinging to the African Queen. Graham felt with our engine power we would be fine going the long way round, particularly given where we were going. So off we set for a long days motor and this time panoramic views – of sky and sea.Cold Front Approaching

Cirrus clouds heralding the approach of the cold front, but we were travelling through slick seas with what little wind there was right on our nose. Towards afternoon the sea stirred itself and Graham suggested we put out some mainsail to stabilise the boat. This had a miraculous effect and we  had a very civilised picnic lunch.

As the wind came up we put out some jib to balance up the boat, then, as we turned for Plymouth the wind was directly behind, so we rolled away the main and gradually unfurled the jib, to help pull us along. All with the engine still throbbing. We arrived in Plymouth at around six and had a moment of drama, just inside the breakwater, when the jib would not furl. Graham went forward, wrestled it into submission and lashed it down, while John kept us head to wind. Then we puttered through Plymouth Sound to Mayflower marina and a berth right at the front of the pontoon. The men from the harbour office waiting to catch our ropes were a most welcome sight and John was complimented on his driving. The quiet after turning the engine off came as a relief.

Mayflower Marina Plymouth

We had a cup of tea, freshened up and in no time at all it was nearing eight and we headed off to the marina bistro for our evening meal. At a table across the room a party from the Old Gaffers rally, resplendent in blue jumpers and red neckerchiefs were also settling in for the night. As we ate our meal more Gaffers arrived, pulled up first chairs and then tables until an organic pier had crept across the room towards us. They were not due to meet till tomorrow, but like us, had arrived ahead of the weather and were clearly happy to meet up with old friends. Eventually we spotted our neighbours from the previous evening arrive looking tired, but soon revived by the company. There was a great buzz of chatter and the promise of singing later, but we had had an early start and were due another tomorrow, so left them to it. No doubt our table was then absorbed into the collective.

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Day 1, Voyage Proper

The first leg of our voyage was from Lymington to Falmouth on Bank Holiday Monday. We were then due to hop to Weymouth, Brixham and Plymouth, to arrive Falmouth on Friday. The tide turned at rather civilised hours, so we were up at 7.30 with a view to set off an hour later. The marina was wrapped in the promised fog, but the forecast was for a sunny day, so we expected it to burn off. On my way back from the showers visibility was getting worse, can you spot the Isle of Wight ferry? Quite. We decided to give it an hour.

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An hour later things were a little clearer and we set off. Once out of the marina we were in a murky world, reminiscent of an old horror movie. Way markers loomed at us out of the fog, their shapes and colours hard to define. We heard the mornful horn of the ferry somewhere ahead. I went to the bows to keep watch. In my mind I could hear Bill, our instructor’s voice,

Lymington River

“…..well, when it’s like that you just wouldn’t go out in it, wouldn’t go out in it”. RYA advise for if you were caught out in it was to anchor off the channel and wait for it to clear and I could see a number of mooring buoys to starboard and suggested we pick one up. No. We came to the end of the passage and a thick blanket of fog lay ahead. The horn from the ferry sounded nearer somewhere ahead. Word came from the wheel that we were turning back, to give it an hour. We crept back, the channel markers no clearer and were turning into our pontoon as the ferry loomed out of the grey, like a floating office block.

So our first voyage lasted about an hour all told. We tired up and headed off up into Lymington for a coffee.

Lymington

Just a few yards from the marina it was a totally different day. Here was the glorious bank holiday we had been promised. We sat on the quay and drank scalding hot cappuccino from paper cups. By the time we had finished the weather over the marina looked much clearer, so we set off back to have another go.

We slipped the ropes and motored out to muscle our way into a queue of similar minded craft. Everyone was heading out. It was like trying to leave a packed car park after a rock concert. Away all boats! Blithely we were all racing towards a great bank of cloud hanging on the water ahead.

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One by one we entered, risking close encounters of an unfortunate kind. It was not as forbidding as the earlier experience, but visibiltiy was reduced to a few hundred yards around the yacht. John had a wonderful time with all the gadgets. The chart screen had the radar overlay and the AIS targets flashing, down below the screen was just radar, the south coast a vivid red and yellow archipelago against a black background. Every so often Graham would go below to check out a blip on John’s screen with the clearer picture from the pure radar. Fog horns sounded. John sounded ours in response. It is a penetrating high pitched wail, which John likens to the whoop of a destroyer and I feel is more Thomas the Tank engine.

Then followed a long passage under motor, listening for noises beyond those of our own engine.

The Needles

We had the following spectacular view of the Needles. As the day progressed we had similar visions of England’s famed Jurassic coastline, which we could have explored quite closely as the firing range was out of action for the bank holiday. Most important we did not see anything alarming or unexpected, a couple of boats we were tracking on the radar came into view and passed us by, the rest remained voices off. Finally the screen showed we were approaching Weymouth. Graham was of the view   the fog would lift as we approached land. This seemed a reasonable viewpoint.

Sadly it was wrong.Entrance to Weymouth We were converging on Weymouth together with a number of our targets, suddenly manifesting themselves and tried to form an orderly line. Fortunately once inside the harbour the veil lifted and by the time we had tied up we were bathed in glorious sunshine.   We explored Weymouth, which was very pretty, the atmosphere in the port enhanced by the presence of a rally of Old Gaffers, captivating old boats with stories to tell. The harbour was thronged with people eating fantastic looking fish and chips. We wandered the back streets, bought post cards for folk at home and took a picture of Lyra.Lyra at Weymouth

WeymouthLater that evening, the tourists had gone home and the town was at peace, a trio of windsurfers sped moth-like into the quiet harbour.

Windsurfers, Weymouth

 

 

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Passage Planning

Nav tableWe have been sitting at the table surrounded by the south coast charts, pilot books and almanacs working out our passage plans for the next few days. Every so often we transfer to the chart table and squeeze in together to key in waypoints on the electronic chart. We are putting into practise or recent training, but this time it is for real. It is not without its trials. Entry after entry in the pilot book warns of rip tides and overfalls ” the worst in the channel….the most dangerous on the South coast” lovely!

Out instructing skipper Graham arrived, a quiet spoken, reassuring presence. The three of us are setting off from Lymington tomorrow and eventually arriving in Falmouth at the end of the week. It will be strange to move away from Berthon, where we have begun to feel quite at home.I will miss the swish facilities, all chrome and aqua tinted glass, walk in showers with rubber wood flooring, warm to the feet. A far cry from the chilly concrete toilet blocks of our camping holidays. I will miss the two shaggy dogs, one huge and black, that would have terrified my Mum, till she got to know him, who give a nonchalant welcome as I go for my shower each morning. Most of all we will miss the very friendly, staff here, who have looked after us so well during our sea trials.

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Provisions

ProvisionsBefore we returned the hire car we went shopping to provision the boat in Waitrose – very posh. It was manic, the entire population of Lymington seemed to be there stocking up for the coming bank holiday. We were glad to come away. Still, we now have lots of none perishables to fall back on all neatly stowed under the seats. Hopefully one of us will remember exactly what is where.

Then we bit the bullet and motored over to the fuel point to fill the tanks with diesel. Lyra is much more expensive to feed than we are!

To reward ourselves we set off out for an afternoon  sail, which was much more like it.

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A Pause for Reflection

We took the girls home and came back down to Lymington in a hire car. On the way we stopped at Netley Marsh, to visit the churchyard where the ashes of John’s Mum and Dad are interred. We arrived at lunchtime and children from the neighbouring nursery school were outside. The graveyard was full of the happy sound of children playing. We stood by their stone and remembered happy days spent with John and Vera, particularly the days when we would come back from the boatshow every year, footsore and weary, to a fine cup of tea or two. Usually two.  So sad that they are no longer around to share in this final fulfilment of the dream.

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Here Come the Girls!

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Katie and Lara have arrived. They came down on the train and we picked them up from Brockenhurst station and took them for their first sight of Lyra. They climbed on board, had a good look round and promptly climbed into their berth at the front and immediately looked very cosy, peeking at us from under the duvet. We managed to tease them back out to go for dinner at the Ship Inn. It is wonderful to have some time with them on board. Suddenly Lyra is a home from home.

Our first part family sail turned out to be a motor, as there was up to twenty five knots of apparent bitterly cold wind blowing. The girls were well wrapped up under their life jackets.

Once more we were sailing in the evening quiet, but as we arrived back a sailing school were setting out, a small swarm with their sails glowing in the last of the evening light.

Dinghies

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Help and Hospitality

At the end of our first sail we edged carefully back to our berth to find Alan there ready to catch our lines. Alan and his wife Sheila are the couple who sold us Lyra, then Beebok. They are a lovely couple, both perfectionists and very generous, the ideal people to buy a boat from. They have gone over to the dark side and bought a motor yacht. A rather smart one, as we were about to discover, for Alan had come to invite us over for drinks.

I had never been on a motor boat before, not even on one of our annual visits to the Southampton boat show, the spaciousness was amazing, the layout an unfolding mystery. We sat in the sumptuous deck saloon with such a panoramic view from the large windows, it was like being on deck in warmer climes. We drank wine and chatted, exchanging stories and recommendations, losing all track of time. Sheila then kindly asked us to stay to dinner, mushroom rissoto – a particular favourite of mine, and yummy smoked salmon. We had a lovely evening and wobbled home along the pontoon to sleep soundly.

The following morning Alan and Sheila came over to sail out with us and help us master the in mast furling and sort out a twist we had developed the previous day. It was a fine day with light wind and slight seas, so in contrast to the previous evening everyone was out. The Solent was a carnival of craft great and small, with a couple of beautiful classic sailing boats. With their help we sorted out the twist by contorted manoeuvres and a lot of flapping of sail, with Alan and John adjusting tensions and Sheila changing course. We learned an awful lot in a short time, after which Alan quietly sorted out differences he had noticed with the rigging, so that when they left us we were very ship shape. I went round taking close up photographs to remind us the details for the future.

We hope to return their hospitality in the near future.

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Maiden Voyage

We took Lyra out for the first time last Friday teatime with mingling excitement and fear. We cast off the lines and Robin from Berthon came out to wish us Bon Voyage.  We wound our way out, following the channel markers out of the Lymington River. Lots of other craft were busy making there way back in and we had our first close encounter with the Isle of Wight Ferry. We waved happily to folk on deck.

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Skipper jpg

Then we were out into the Solent, headed to wind and unfurled the sails. They are laminates and the stitching gives them, I think, the appearance of giant insect wings. They perform superbly. We made over nine knots as the wind blew up to nineteen knots on the beam. We had the Solent to ourselves on a beautiful evening, racing along with the wake creaming behind us.

Reader it was wonderful.

Cathy

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